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#SuzyMFW: Extending A Fashion Identity

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    A departurefrom its usual style, MaxMara's A/W 2016-17 collection featuredbright colours and bold new cuts
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Max Mara: Beyond the CamelCoat?
    "Kinetic Energy" was the title that MaxMara gave to itscollection, which cited Dada, Constructivism and Modernism asfavourite inspirations for this fashion season.
    But how arty can you make one of MaxMara's camel coats, inthe finest Italian cloth, tailored to perfection? And why would youneed to fancy up the basic?
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    This company had been designing for women in the realworld since the 1950s. I would go do far as to say that it has beenan accomplice and a supporter in the liberation of women. The coats- big, bold, and, for A/W 2016 with horizontal stripes that werekey to the season - came in strong primary colours: red, blue, andyellow.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The display was confident, graphic, and honest. Women needefficient tailoring far more than the visions of MarilynMonroe that were presented last season. But to give thecollection a modern spin, silvered surfaces, especially the gleamof dull pewter, added a layer of modern chic.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    I imagine that MaxMara feels the pressure from all thefeather-filled puffa jackets on the streets of the Western world.With such precise, but free-ranging cloth coats, they deserve toconquer the fashion universe.
    Kiton: Tailor-made for Luxury
    
    Kiton's Neapolitan history as a master tailor is in needof a wife. The company, which uses the finest wools for high-endclients, has just made a step towards its goal: Melinda Gates, wifeof entrepreneur and philanthropist Bill Gates, appeared on thecover of Forbes in a Kiton jacket.
    
    A fur andcashmere gilet from Kiton's A/W 2016-17collection
    Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue
    I have visited the workrooms in Naples and watched thehands of the master tailors. But this is the first season of apresentation in Milan when it seems that womenswear is gainingstrength.
    
    Showing in rooms that represent the spirit of Kiton'sNeopolitan base, models created tableaux vivants to display thecrispness of a daffodil yellow jacket or the softness of silkenpyjamas.
    
    My eye was caught by a cashmere cape, which seemed to havethe right quality, confidence and cut to seduce female partners- in business or romance - Bill Gates' orotherwise.
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