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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital THINK OF A DESCRIPTIVE WORD beginning with "s", and thereis a wide choice appropriate to the collection sent out in the nameof Jil Sander: sobriety, solemnity, strictness,severity. Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga cited various othereffects to explain some weird, and some graceful, creations in acollection he called "nocturnal".  Picture credit: Indigital There was a good deal of black, starting with suits, thesilhouettes drawn with such Cruella de Vil intensity that it cameas a mild shock when the models turned to display an attempt ofprettiness with a gathered back. Gone the Princess of Darkness: sayhello to a bow! Yet the softening did not help to make the silhouette womanly.Instead the show was dramatic, sometimes with a grandiose effect.The minimalism, of which the brand's founder was mistress of allshe surveyed, remained a house code.  Picture credit: Indigital But the designer played boldly with outside surfaces - onesparky dress with silvered surfaces had the effect of a scratchyBrillo pad absorbed by silk and textured wool.  Picture credit: Indigital The problem for anyone who has traced even just thesurface of the streamlined clothes she produced, is that herfashion is now positioned at the end of a very long journey. Thebaggage includes her entire life, her personal development as awoman, parallel with the seismic shift in women's position insociety.  Picture credit: Indigital Rodolfo Paglialunga cannot really be expected as a designer -and, yes, as a male designer - to absorb the Jil Sander spirit. Butthere was something telling about one essential word that wasmissing in his list of "s" words: serenity.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |