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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital OH, THE NOBILITY of being a woman! One who is dressedspiffily in a tweed coat, swaddled in knits, stepping out introusers, or swaying sensually on high heels with bars of threethin straps. After a spell of sporty clothes at Bottega Veneta,designer Tomas Maier took a different route: a celebration ofwomanhood. It was neither "out there" nor timid, but justright.  Picture credit: Indigital "I wanted it to be sensual," said Tomas, who openedthe show with plain, mannish trouser suits and ended it withbrassieres built into soft dresses. From masculine to feminine,with the pendulum of the show falling straight and true with itsleopard-patterned calfskin coat or gilded lamb trench.  Picture credit: Indigital The concept was to soften firm lines, mostly by usingvariations of wool, until what might have been solid clothes meltedover the body - never with obvious sexuality, but with a certaintenderness. Then there were the colours: plain and creamy; thenbrick followed by wine and violet. There were also patterns thateven shocked - as in a burning orangeskirt named "Vesuvius", after the fiery volcano.  Picture credit: Indigital Tomas repeated the world "sensual" three timesbackstage, almost as if he had surprised himself with thegentleness in his collection. He alsotalked about knitting, explaining how it was working with wool thathad made the collection look, and no doubt feel, different. Various pieces in thecollection seem to have been deliberately re- thought, like thesubtle shrinking of Bottega's much-lovedhandbags, which had decreased in size. Tomas Maier has been at Bottega since 2001, duringwhich time he has built it up as far more than a brand of artisanalwoven handbags. But I wondered if in this show he was reminding usof his nine previous years at Hermès. There was something of thatspirit in this collection: the finest materials, the subtlety, the elegant discretion.  Picture credit: Indigital Of course, like any fine designer, Maier hasexperimented during his time at Bottega. I remember especially thefeatherlight, vividly coloured nylon dresses that actually appearedon the red carpet. It was a surprise, even a shock; yet in fashion,change is good. But at a time of turmoil in the industry - not tomention the entire world - a voice of sophisticated calm at thisBottega show seemed so right fornow.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |