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#SuzyMFW: Versace’s Strong Women

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    "SPORTY!" I said to Donatella Versace backstage, afterseeing her models walk briskly around a circular arena under ringsof lights.
    "They're strong women - women must be strong!" repliedDonatella, as though my description of the figures walkingpurposefully in their skinny, zippered suits with leather insertsor stretch trousers and slim skirts should have been moremeaningful than mere sportswear.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Perhaps I was referencing the fact that we were in a vast arenaat the top of a modernist building in Milan; or maybe I wasreminded of the Versace Atelier couture show, where sport was onthe agenda but strode into sexuality.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Women in control seemed to be the image that theseforward-marching figures wanted to project, wearing icy blue shadesthat sometimes - as in a fluffy fur coat where the blue faded intowhite - had an intergalactic feel. Was it a journey into space?
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    But Donatella had a more down-to-earth proposition: dressingwomen in sporty de luxe outfits in which they could take on themodern world. There were some silky slips of dresses, and one had awardrobe malfunction, revealing a breast as the model did therounds of the runway. That unexpected flash of flesh was differentfrom the way a shoulder was deliberately bared open.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Mostly, the clothes were for the day. Only a few long dresseseven hinted at this weekend's Academy Awards, where Versace isalways a strong contender to dress famous figures on the redcarpet.
    I am not suggesting that Donatella has dumped dressing up. Shehas Atelier for that, and some of the ready-to-wear outfits hadarty effects of whirls and zig-zags that would not go unnoticed ona sidewalk and could shine at night.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    So there was a fresh dynamism about this collection. Yetit was still, as Christopher Kane, British designer and formermember of team Versace put it: "Very Donatella."
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
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