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#SuzyMFW: Moschino on Fire!

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    AS A GIANT CHANDELIER dress swayed down a runway smothered with Persian rugs, tinkling past the broken furniture recalling the 15th-century, Puritan "Bonfire of the Vanities", the Moschino model paused under an archway - the better to show off the crystal creation.
    This funky parody of high fashion had thousands of hits on my Instagram when I last looked. Whether this success was due to my shaky photographic skills or to designer Jeremy Scott is a good question, because he has such a cult following.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Moschino under Its dynamic American designer is on fire - literally in this show, where puffs of smoke around one model looked like a theatrical special effect until she turned to show smoke curling out of singed leather at the rear. Burnt patches were the new decorative motif for crinolines almost as wide as the chandelier. The smoke came from machines inserted under the clothes. As Jeremy put it: "Apocalypse WOW!"
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    It all sounds like stage-set nonsense. Yet this was a new departure for Jeremy, who has previously focused on subjects such as last season's car wash, where every piece had some reference to street signs and produced road rage for its chaotic management.
    This show was quite different: fewer fans screaming outside and a more sophisticated set. It even had some serious tailoring, as long as you don't mind your shapely grey coat decorated with giant cigarette burns.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Otherwise, the show was built on party dressing, with swooshes of taffeta sweeping up into a giant bow, revealing underwear and thigh-high boots; or a graceful swathe of silk draping over a pair of ragged jeans.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    It was hard to tell, with all the showmanship, how credible a wardrobe Jeremy offered.
    Smoke gets in your eyes. And that was the story from this joker who has made a fashion career out of being at least 50 per cent serious about his work. On the flip side, this season featured a handbag shaped like a packet of cigarettes. Instead of the usual warning it had one phrase: "Fashion Kills". Bitter sweet.
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