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敬请期待中文版  Theclothes in Salvatore Ferragamo's collection successfully partneredthe accessories Picture credit: Indigital IT IS NO NEWS in the industry that many fashion houses are builton shoes and handbags rather than clothes. The concept has beenaccepted for at least two decades, with the Prada-Gucci stand-offin the Tom Ford years of the 1990s as a defining moment for Italianfashion. Surely upscale customers across the world all get it - that ifaccessories are front of store, they are also in the front line forsales. Working out why clothes from these companies are secretedaway on upper floors does not require rocket science; they bring ina fraction of the company's trade. I have been thinking about this conundrum during my current tripto Milan, where the calendars are scattered with accessories-onlyevents. But they don't receive as much attention as when they puttheir creations on the catwalk. So I have been pondering thedirection that the masters of shoes and bags should, or could, betaking. Salvatore Ferragamo: Comfort and Joy  Picture credit: Indigital Although the shoes and bags have become richer and morethree-dimensional during his tenure - for example a heellapped with fur -they remain practical, with the designerenthusiastic about his role. "I always play with details. It's about the freshness of shoes,about wanting to show the beautiful craftsmanship," Giornetti saidbefore the show, where a table of accessories had a bold positionbackstage.  Picture credit: Indigital On the fashion side, the designer said he had focused on thestirrings of contemporary art in the early 20th century in theBauhaus and Dada eras.  Picture credit: Indigital The graphically patterned runway told the same story as theclothes, which often seemed like artworks, ingenious in the waythat zigzags were worked around the womanly figure (althoughMissoni has been there before). Occasionally the geometric effectswere worked into the body shape, as when a dress in the finest,silken pleats in pink, green, black and mustard lead down to a pairof green shoes.  Picture credit: Indigital Ah, the shoes! After looking at a black-and-whitevertical-striped coat with a row of six mink pom poms, bootees witha thin geometric pattern seemed calm. The same was true of ashocking-pink buttoned skirt and an orange lined cape with furrybuttons. That outfit was worn with furry metallic heels in plainblack. Just occasionally the collection's boot was on the otherfoot, when elegant layers of white pleats descended to blue furshoes.  Picture credit: Indigital Giornetti is honest and straightforward about his approach: theclothes are for statement dressing; but the shoes are for real. Tod's: A Moment of Emotion The image of model Karlie Kloss lying on a wooden workbenchwearing a leather outfit as her second skin has already flashedaround the world. The moment of emotion in this performance art byVanessa Beecroft came not from the reclined figure of Karlie, northe other models behind her, their nude bodies covered with piecesof leather. Instead it came from the artisan in his white coat,with three others stitching together the leather.  Picture credit: Indigital Diego Della Valle, the owner of the Tod's empire, explained thathe wanted people to understand the art and artisanship behind thelabel in this performance, called "VB Handmade". Following thedrama of Beecroft's staging of performance art for Kanye West tokick off the New York fashion season, Tod's and its skills withleather were a worldwide hit.  Picture credit: Indigital But in spite of the celebrities in attendance, especially fromAsia, the Tod's fashion show that followed the art installation didnot get nearly as much attention. Designer Alessandra Facchinettistruck the right note of sporty energy with a focus on leather,although there was also plaid wool for a trouser suit, its winecolour the better to show off a white, patterned bag and whiteTod's loafers. Another plaid coat had its red linesreflected in the scarlet boot laces, and I wondered which camefirst - the russet fur stole or the russetshoes.  Picture credit: Indigital In her show notes (where bags and shoes merited more wordsthan the clothes), the designer said that stitching leather intothe outfits, as in closures or belts, was part of her work ondesign identity. If Tod's wants something sporty chic to complementits powerful accessories, the designer is getting things justright.  Picture credit: Indigital Trussardi: Hello, Dolly! I am not sure that Dolly Parton would have recognised herself inTrussardi's vision of Country and Western clothes: a cream capewith orange leather trim to match the boots; or an orange shearlingjacket with variation of the same shade for sunglasses, shirt,trousers and suede boots.  Picture credit: Indigital The denim in this line-up of "country" clothes consisted of ajean jacket with a chiffon skirt trailing the catwalk or a shapelyjacket and skinny jeans. But Gaia Trussardi had gathered a bunch ofsongsters to get us into an American mood by singing ElvisPresley's greatest hits.  Picture credit: Indigital Predominant on the runway were Trussardi leather goods: theboots and especially the bags, with handles pushed up to the elbowfor a better display. They looked good, whether as a tufty orangefurry tote to match the model's fiery hair; a scarlet leather toteto match with plaid; or a small, flat-bottomed, or asmall, flat-bottomed, hardwear-decorated handbag. A bag for all seasons and reasons is what Trussardi is about.They could not have been better made or displayed.  Picture credit: Indigital But as with so many leather houses, there is no sense that theclothes came first - or that they have much purpose other than as abackdrop to the accessories.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |