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#SuzyMFW: Emilio Pucci - Into the Digital Universe

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    EMILIO PUCCI STOOD for three things: sport, pattern and the birth of the jet set in an international upper-class world.
    In his second outing for the house, Massimo Giorgetti took a big step forward - as did his models in their pointy-toe flat or knee-high hiking boots.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    The collection felt clinical, but it was right on-message with a bold mountain design digitally printed on dresses or on a bomber jacket with stretch pants. It was a backward glance at Emilio Pucci's beginnings as a designer of skiwear.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Yet at the same time everything was different: 3-D printing immersing the surface; stretch fabrics in motion with the body. The result is a 21st-century language that is also found in the designer's own successful line - MSGM.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    What stood out for Pucci today was the intensity of colour, as in an oversize coat that was almost a hazard-warning orange, or, in contrast, a sweet rubbery pink for a big, bold sweater where inserts of ropes gave a frisson of sexual energy.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    What a difference one season can make! Massimo Giorgetti had an awkward start, but for A/W 2016 he's hit his fashion stride. I thought from his first show that he had a mountain to climb. He did it in an energetic way.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    There must have been sighs of relief from the line-up of LVMH executives. The fact that Alexandre Arnault, the young, digitally savvy son of Bernard Arnault, sat next to Laudomia Pucci, daughter of the founder, was a neat metaphor for a brand on the move.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
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