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敬请期待中文版  Hoodby Air Picture credit: Indigital ATTENTION GRABBING is the essence of off-key fashion. Tobe cool, you have to shock with flashes of flesh, gender bendingand cross dressing. Or do you? Is that really a modern attitude? I sense here in New York an existential angst about whatis now anti-establishment. Men teetering down the runway inhigh-heeled boots at Hood by Air - yawn. This concept of'shocking!' seemed passé. Despite this, the plastic wrapped furrycoats, the baggy tops and bottoms with some bare flesh in betweenbrought plenty of energy to the runway. Public School Then there was the set at Public School that consisted ofan artist's gallery filled with sculptures created from dead horsesand a catwalk that required walking round a pile ofwood. The clothes fitted into the purposeful spirit of modern design,opening with a large shocking pink coat and the look developing aslaminated ribs on oversize sweaters or large leather motorcyclejackets. All this was anchored with hefty buckle boots.  PublicSchool Picture credit: Indigital Dion Lee So what is today's definition of cool? Sometimes a simplegesture can make clothes seem right for the times. I found themetallic rings that Dion Lee used as compass points for clothes,which circled the body, a smart way of creating fashion geometry.The collection went on to use silvered lines of metallic decorationthat also looked purposeful. The designer summed up his work with a string of words thatexpressed modernity in fashion: "aperture, optics, piercing,pleating, circle-cut knitwear and crystal pleated silk".  DionLee Picture credit: Indigital 3.1 Phillip Lim The 3.1 Phillip Lim collection, shown in a bloody red glowof lighting, seemed to try much too hard to be hip. Why did therehave to be such drama over the sporty clothes? The mixes of armykhaki, green and earthy browns already set the tone, and theutility pieces with Japanese kimono shapes made a fine mix. Takenapart, there were excellently designed pieces; together they seemedtoo cool for fashion's school.  3.1 PhillipLim Picture credit: Indigital Prabal Gurung Prabal Gurung went for a sophisticated look, while keepingto the concept of enlarged size for a bold duffel coat with asweeping fur collar or for dresses patterned with ginkgo leaves.The show notes suggested inspiration from Henri Rousseau'sWoman Walking in an Exotic Forest. I saw instead womengoing about their daily lives in loosely fitting subtly decoratedclothes - which is no bad thing.  PrabalGurung Picture credit: Indigital Opening Ceremony As I sat for an hour waiting for the Opening Ceremony'stechnical problems to be sorted, I had a good look at the setfilled with space-mobiles. They turned out to be part of the Sci-Fiinspirations that included T-shirts sporting designs in acollaboration with Syd Mead, the artist behind the images of themovies Blade Runner and Star Trek. Design duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have a grip on21st-century modernism as it segued into futurism. Hencethe digital colours, tactile fabrics and an overall sense thattomorrow has arrived.  OpeningCeremony Picture credit: Indigital Jeremy Scott Jeremy Scott's unabashed expression of kitsch in clothingcame as a relief from fashion angst. He called his collection"Cowboys and Poodles", which brought brightly coloured vaguelyWestern outfits, including cow hide prints. Pop art is the Jeremy Scott calling card. This season he haddenim aprons, hair dressers' tools printed on the back and front ofsweat shirts and cow hide patterned boots - the better to strideforth into fashion's happy valley.  JeremyScott Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |