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敬请期待中文版  John Galliano's collection for Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018, features illusionary high-tech fabrics that transform into colourful holographs at the flash of a camera or phone. This truly modern 21st-century couture is not for sale, however Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela Polyurethane coats glinting and winking in refractive lights, layers of tapestry and jacquard in vivid colours, cloche hats in bold shades, and a parasol to match. It could only be John Galliano.  Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018: Oversized padded ski jacket in jacquard layered in reflective prism film; high-top trainers Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela Or to be more precise, it was the Maison Margiela Artisanal collection created by the legendary designer. In a season of newbies and strategic placements in couture houses, the definition of high fashion is more complex than ever. But the colourful collection that Galliano sent out was his usual, striking vision of controlled craziness.  Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018: Dress in nude organza with a cape in magic mirror with dégradé print; high-top trainers Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela The overall effect was super visual, as models apparently glowing in the gloom walked past bed-shaped seating created by American artist Jessi Reaves. Everything seemed preternaturally “arty”. But the designer had also embraced high tech, with a coat-dress transformed into a holographic gown. In another example, the shadow of a coat became visible over a bright feather encased in clear polyurethane. Just reading the show notes was extraordinary, even before absorbing the result. “Trench coat zipped to a dress created in half-lining and half-silk jersey and worn with a lime green leather bustier,” read to the description of look number two.  Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018: ChinaStar trench coat zipped to a dress created in half-lining and half-silk jersey and worn with a lime-green spazzolato leather bustier; high-top trainers Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela But all was revealed in conversation with Renzo Rosso, whose Only the Brave company owns Maison Margiela. He explained to me that this collection was not intended for couture clients, but as inspiration for the atelier to create the selling ready-to-wear line.  Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018: Dress in clear polyurethane with lace detailing an a-face motif print-layered over multi-coloured plume; high-top trainers Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela “You can see the energy in the showroom – I was very impressed,” Renzo said. “It was not easy with John in the beginning, but in one year we have headed in the right direction and sales are up 24%. Artisanal is just a prototype; we give it to museums or art galleries or put it in our archive. We never sell it. But the details go into the commercial collection.”  Maison Margiela Artisanal, Spring/Summer 2018: Décortiqué nylon ski jacket with a décortiqué crinoline in Perspex and shoelace; high-top trainers Giovanni Giannoni / Courtesy of Maison Margiela “After two years we finally have John’s vision,” he continued. “It was not possible before. But now it is organised and it’s good when you do it all at the same time. Otherwise, you lose the creativity because people can steal it.” (责任编辑：admin) |