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敬请期待中文版  Printsin the spirit of the classic scarves made sleek calf-lengthdresses Picture credit: Hermès It was a quiet triumph for thedesigner and a major success for Hermès, as Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski brought the first inter-seasoncollection to be shown publicly right back to heart and home. Not since MartinMargiela was named Creative Directorin 1997 has Hermès used itshistoric Paris store on rue du FaubourgSaint-Honoré as a backdrop.  Beauty,calm and real clothes, as seen in this eleganttwo-piece Picture credit: Hermès From the vases of country flowers to the impeccable beigeinterior and the initials of each member of the audienceembroidered on handkerchiefs, this was the house once best knownfor its equestrian elegance. But there was far more to the collection than horsey bits - evenif houndstooth and tassel prints, in the spirit of the classicHermès scarves, made sleek blouses and calf-length dresses.  Theclothes were dynamic andwomen-friendly Picture credit: Hermès Love and life also came into the show, with a harpist pluckingthe strings and a poetic reading entitled: "I never gave youflowers." But a charming setting is nothing if the show doesn't sing - aspreviously seen when Nadège seemed overwhelmed by the enormousParis equestrian stables.  Smartcasual coats followed the silhouette of thebody Picture credit: Hermès This time all was beauty, calm and real clothes: coats followingthe silhouette of the body, (mostly) long dresses and skirts, somewith geometric cuts. These smart-casual, but not precisely sporty,designs were shown in those colours that Hermès owns and names. Soa suit with long, belted jacket and calf-length skirt was definedas 'rose sorbet'; and a darker burnt-orange trenchcoat as 'tilered'. My 'linen blue' was their 'periwinkle'.  Somelooks were angular, with a sense ofmovement Picture credit: Hermès All these clothes - angular, but with a sense of movement - wereboth dynamic and women-friendly. So what happened to make Nadège produce an Hermèscollection that we onlookers always felt she had in her? 'I'm back in Paris,' she said simply, referring to her returnfrom America to her native France. She might have said thatboth she herself and Hermès had come back home. (责任编辑：admin) |