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敬请期待中文版  A futuristiclook from Iris van Herpen's A/W 2016-17collection Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Iris van Herpen: Digitally dreaming The vision was extraordinary: a duo of identical models,side by side in shimmering dresses, their bodies suspended betweenreality and what Iris van Herpen called "unreality".  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue For the first time, this Dutch designer with a penchantfor the digital world made clothes so enticing that it wasirrelevant whether they had been made from blown-up cobwebs orcreated by optical light screens. Iris has finally arrived at that moment when herfantastical creations look like genuine clothes. She divided thetechniques into "lucid" looks and "phantom" dresses, and as Ilooked at the effect on the models, I asked her to define thisseason's "lucid dreaming".  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue "It's a sleep state where you can control your dreams," Irissaid. "When I design, I'm often almost in that state. In thiscollection I have been trying to find that thin line betweenreality and unreality, and I also wanted the audience to share myown experience in designing the collection."  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Two very different techniques included 3D-printed lace on silverdresses and, for flexibility, GPU printing on black dresses. Themajor difference between the two was that the black dresses werehand-assembled, in one case made from 5,000 individual pieces.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue For me, the Iris van Herpen fashion story was the easy way thesedresses fitted the body, not looking like weird, scientificinventions but rather like dresses that just happened - because thescreens were both transparent and mirrored - to appear assculptural ready-to-wear. For the first time at van Herpen, theseshort, shapely dresses with 3D surfaces put the accent not onwonder or weirdness, but "wear". Olympia Le Tan: The Art of Dressing  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Although her signature style is colourful and robust, quietlyand carefully Olympia Le Tan has expanded into clothing. Just asthe originality and charm of her bags is that they are presented asbooks, so her fashion for A/W 2016 was based on art. Modern art.And that included putting her models in odd pairs of socks inhomage to Andy Warhol's and David Hockney's idiosyncratic dresssense.  Picture credit: InDigital The storyline was powerful, both in the way it waspresented in the Galerie Perrotin in Paris and the way that theperambulating exhibition included models in tops covered withfamous paintings, worn with a bag announcing, "To paint is to loveagain". With tongue firmly in cheek, the designer had her friendSabine Getty pretending to be an art collector, trailing herbewildered PA.  SabineGetty modelling for her friend Olympia Le Tan, A/W2016-17 Picture credit: InDigital At the heart of the show were clothes with a real sense ofstyle, odd socks and all. Cheered on by her artist father PierreLe-Tan, whose own work has been exhibited in the Galerie Perrotin,Olympia showed her most convincing collection of clothes withoutreducing the wit and charm of her signature "book" bags.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Nicopanda: A "Punk Hello Kitty"  Suzy withNicola Formichetti of Nicopanda, after his A/W 2016-17presentation Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Nicola Formichetti has brought out a gender-neutralversion of clothes and accessories, displaying what he loves: cultcartoon characters and painterly drawings given digital treatmentand lots of fun. Unlike his collection for Diesel, his ownNicopanda world is deliberately anarchic but also colourful andentertaining.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Nicola's concept of making "a punk Hello Kitty" comes partlyfrom his Italian-Japanese background and partly from a Britishsense of humour from his student years in London. The Nicopandabear is the logo for clothing and accessories, including backpacksand bumbags that complement the outfits. The message is colour,happiness, and energy. Using the latest technology on printedT-shirts and vividly coloured bags with a graphic pattern of bearears and eyes, the result is cute, punk, andpersonal.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Sybilla: Colour Me Bright When Sybilla, as the Spanish designer is known, resuscitated herstyle last season after a decade's hiatus, she reminded the fashionworld that female-friendly, perfectly cut clothes are not a21st-century invention. The success of her pop-up store in New Yorkhas also proved that women are eager for clothes cut to theirbodyline.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue With plans for future pop-up stores and with clothes online atFarfetch, Sybilla's future looks as bright as her A/W 2016collection. A vivid shade might come as the daffodil-yellow liningof a black coat; or an orange jacket worn over a pink top; orsubtle combinations of asparagus-green sweaters and wine-redtrousers.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue The element of inner surprise included a line of bare, wintertrees printed inside a neutral beige coat and, for a dash of modernglamour, a slash of gold down the front of a black coat marked onlyby a thin red line.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue (责任编辑：admin) |