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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital THE HAND-PAINTED black eyes stared out from the invitation, asthey would later from the models at the Dries Van Noten show. What else would you expect but those brooding, coal-black lashesto evoke the narcissistic perfectionist, the addict of grandeur whowas the Marchesa Luisa Casati?  Picture credit: Indigital Or as Dries Van Noten said backstage, among the modelswith pencilled eyes and strict hair drawn back: "The MarchesaCasati considered herself a walking piece of art - and that, forme, was a very interesting starting point for the collection."  Picture credit: Indigital I have seen many designers, from JohnGalliano to David Koma to AlexanderMcQueen, find inspiration in the Marchesa and her decadentlifestyle in Venice, surrounded by opulent partygoers and peacocksand obsessed with her appearance.  Picture credit: Indigital But I've not seen Casati inspire a designer in quite thisdirection before: instead of lacy black evening gowns and layers ofvelvet, there were pinstriped masculine suits. They wereshown with pulled back hair, silken neckties and a frisson of theelegant lesbian with shapely tailoring. In a softer mood, but stillwith undefined gender, a model had a printed silk dressinggown wrapped across an undulating body.  Picture credit: Indigital There were different elements in this show, held in a vast,abandoned Paris train depot. Extravagant femininity appeared aspurple feathers at the neck and in boots with broken pearls wrappedround a sculpted heel. Faux leopard fur brought dash to the runway,as did gilding for outfits that were loosely cut and seemed morefamiliar as the Belgian designer's style.  Picture credit: Indigital "I love the whole story of the Marchesa - the snakes on herbody - it is all very inspiring, she was on a quest forextravagance," said Dries, referring to the claim thatthe Marchesa wore snakes as jewels. New for the designer were evening dresses like a slither ofvelvet with mesh across the chest or with a snaking pattern. Greeted with cheers and smothered with admirers, I couldnot ask Dries what I wanted to know: was there an exploration ofthe man/woman thing in this collection?  Picture credit: Indigital I would not have been so crass as to suggest to the designerthat because Cate Blanchett and Rooney Marawere nominated for an Oscar for the lesbian movie Carol, he was encouraged to think about designing for gaywomen. Yet there was something different about the cut of thiscollection and the way that it was worn. The show notes pinged into my smart phone and I read the DriesVan Noten line-up. This is what it said: "Fluid gender, HelmutNewton - decadence as a life style."  Picture credit: Indigital Any great fashion designer catches "l'air du temps" and Drieshas mingled the occult yearnings of Luisa Casati with the currentconversation about gender to capture something new wafting in theair… (责任编辑：admin) |