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#SuzyMFW Marni: Off-kilter Romantics

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    "ROMANTIC - BUT MODERN," said ConsueloCastiglioni, as her Marni models tossed their heads to set inmotion the sway of a string of circular earrings.
    But that jewellery and a dress cut with deep armholes were theonly pieces that seemed to fill Consuelo's description of thecollection as "out of scale".
    In fact, after a couple of seasons taking fashion sculptures tothe max, sometimes as awkward as they were dramatic, thisAutumn/Winter 2016-17 show had deflated in shape - but not inimagination.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    I envisaged the designer sitting at her work table among aline-up of coloured pencils, geometric tools, a set square and acompass. With one implement she would have produced archingshoulders and sleeves on a red dress; with another, a wavy patternfor a loose top and trousers. And then the fun of working out theaccessories: the leg spats with a metallic strip on the shoe heelbeneath. And, of course, those earring with their swivellinggeometric circles.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    And what about the giant sequins - either flat and shiny or moreartistically displayed across the chest?
    There were still elements of oversize; especially big, regalsleeves ballooning up between elbow and wrist. They gave a touch ofhistorical romance and also a feeling of an artist let loose, whichcould be a description of the designer.
    
    Picture credit: Indigital
    Although Marni no longer focuses on furs, the family company'sstarting point, coloured capelets of fur were worn in aninteresting, historical way, swaddling the chest.
    This show offered a strong version of what Marni is today:singular, with a twisted romanticism and a quiet, but verydefinite, signature.
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