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敬请期待中文版 DEREK LAM: "FEMININITY AND POWER"  Picture credit: InDigital Derek Lam had a name for the message he wanted to get across: Nina Simone. Fascinated by the "I Put a Spell on You" singer and by the documentary What Happened, Miss Simone?, the designer set out to embed in the streamlined sportswear of his style a soft but strong look for this powerful African-American icon.  Using colours such as camel or powder blue, he also lightened the clothes, literally. So a shirtdress would come in poplin as though an extension of a masculine shirt; or a beige coat with a swinging skirt would turn out to be made of butter-soft leather. Picture credit: InDigital This lightness applied to colours as well - especially the blue of a rain-washed sky; or the fabrics, with a jacket, shirt and trousers all in matching grey poplin. The clothes were streamlined and easy, but enriched with texture, as with suede in colours such as ginger and olive that gave a hint of the 1970s - but not overpoweringly so.  Picture credit: InDigital The idea of such simplicity enriched by fabrics is nothing new. But Lam moved effortlessly from sporty to seductive, creating a slim dress in strips of guipure lace, accompanied by lace-up boots. Or a beige coat was trimmed with a rustic fringe. The only puzzle was why the soundtrack was flooded with Ravel's "Boléro" rather than the voice of Ms Simone. But overall the show had conviction and suggested that the designer was "Feeling Good". (责任编辑：admin) |