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敬请期待中文版 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring/Summer 2017 Indigital How lucky are millennial Bright Young Things! So many collections seem focused on women under the age of 25, in their prime of youth, pretty with it – and apparently with an unstoppable source of income to buy all these charming clothes. Giamba Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Never mind that on the streets – in Milan or elsewhere around the world – jeans and a T-shirt are the basis of a youthful wardrobe. You can but dream. Giamba Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Giamba: More and more Valli girls Get them young and let their mothers dress them well! Giambattista Valli makes no secret of his desire to embrace the young and dress them throughout their fashionable lives. Giamba is not the only collection he showed in Milan this week. There was also a new fur line, while in Paris he will show his own label grownup collection and Moncler Gamme Rouge. Phew! But that daunting schedule did not seem reflected in the Giamba collection, shown in one of Milan's grand and gilded buildings and imbued with a feeling of dressing young women with entitlement. What would the Marchese's granddaughter choose to wear? A colourful top, short skirt and bare midriff perhaps? Or pyjama-soft silk shirt and trousers; or perhaps an off-the shoulder patterned mini dress? Giamba Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital For Giambattista there is a half-imagined story about this girl floating about the mansion: "She moved to Los Angeles and came back last night just to visit her father – she partied all night, woke up just before the show, put her slippers on – and walked around tapping to the music,” said the designer. Giamba Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital A signal that these dresses were intended for the ballroom in granny's grand mansion was the shoes: tiny red suede bootees, flat leopard print slippers, or the same in shiny pink like sweetie wrappers or covered in glitter. Full marks to Giambattista for giving his signature style a touch of purity and innocence. Giamba Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Philosophy: sex and the pretty young things Lorenzo Serafini started his career at Philosophy with the idea of maids in white dresses in fields of corn. But how do you keep them down on the farm once they've seen pop music heroines prancing on YouTube? Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital So Lorenzo, whose invitation showed a young woman hiding one eye behind a long white feather, went the frills-with-thrills route. While there has been a significant slowdown in Italy's sexpot looks since former Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi left the political stage, the Philosophy collection was pert and pretty – which meant denim dresses riding high as fringed hemlines met underpants and white dresses slumping off one shoulder to bare their breast bones. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital The clothes were still beautifully made, as befits the Aeffe group which includes Alberta Ferretti. And Lorenzo is still working at the pursuit of prettiness, with rose patterns and long floaty dresses in pink and yellow, while a lacquered jacket came in country garden colours of lilac, daffodil and leaf green. But Miss Philosophy has clearly grown up and gone to the city. Something lovely. Something lost. Agnona: Re-set in progress Finding a new identity that does not clash with the old is the task for designers at established houses. How much harder it must be then for Simon Holloway to decide what Agnona stands for. Courtesy of Agnona I had always associated the brand with wool, seeing its connection with the Ermenegildo Zegna group and its recent displays of the finest cashmere knits. Even given that this was a Spring/Summer 2017 collection, Agnona seemed to have moved a long way from the loom, but I was given a brief history lesson about how the brand had been in and out of clothing since its start in 1953. Courtesy of Agnona The collection that the designer sent out was, in his own words, “romantic, languid and sensual” – a new version of Truman Capote's “Swan” using silk, lace, double-faced denim and – at last – “superfine knitwear”. Agnona Spring/Summer 2017 Courtesy of Agnona The floral patterned dresses, the flower designs mostly small, leaned in a soft direction but there was a contrast in a gracefully draped minimalist dress in yellow crèpe. On the mini show went with some clothes that looked good. But how it defines Agnona for Summer 2017 is less evident. (责任编辑：admin) |