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#SuzyNYFW: Rodarte - Bees Without Menace?

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
    Ah, beautiful bees! How they buzz and how they sting - honey sweet, but dangerous too.
    A theme from Rodarte has always been a frisson of unknown danger. And as the models in their long lacy dresses navigated beds of dried up flowers, I was waiting for something unexpected - the little model of a bird hidden in the undergrowth might flutter to life, or get tangled in loose hair done up with ribbons and sparkles.
    
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    Nature might somehow turn nasty on these pretty dresses.
    But nothing untoward happened - no splatters of blood seen before at a Rodarte show, nor a sense of menace - unless you count a rocker couple covered in studs who might have represented baddies on the run.
    
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    The rest suggested love and femininity - a lace dress with a heart covering the breast and, above tailored trousers, a cropped top covered in frills like a bridal outfit.
    "It was gentle. We were inspired by a Spanish movie we really love called The Spirit of the Beehive," said Kate Mulleavy, speaking too for her sister Laura.
    
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    "It is about two children whose father keeps bees. So we tried to do girl's hair like a kid would do it. We had sunflowers in the summer in our house and so many bees that started to pollen."
    Although I knew it was unfair to insist that there must be something sinister in this story - as there has been so often before with Rodarte - I continued to quiz Kate about what might be hidden behind this orgy of prettiness.
    
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    The only breaks in the cloud of lacy white or black were a pink floral dress scattered with glittering stars and one single blood red dress with frilly shoulders and a scarlet ribbon in the hair. In these lovely clothes you could hardly imagine an outing that wasn't a party or a wedding.
    
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    Was there really nothing ominous behind this childishly elegant collection?
    "Sometimes I feel like very beautiful things can mean more than pushing to some extreme idea," Kate said.
    "I take a breath and do something that just flows from me and has a calmness  - and it is actually more dangerous because it's in reverse."
    
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    I know how difficult it can be for designers to express the deep thoughts behind their collections. So I just thought about the lacy dresses, often lightly touching the body as they fell gently to the floor. Many of them looked like possible wedding gowns. A few seemed shorter and sharper.
    
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    What is really impressive about the Rodarte sisters is that they offer such beautiful workmanship - pearl and leather flowers, ruffled tulle, black lace woven into a honeycomb, or even, the more substantial pieces like the shearling and chiffon coats with leather studs.
    
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    It was all sweetness and tranquility.  I could practically hear the drone of the bee before it came in to sting.
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