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#SuzyNYFW: Thom Browne Superstar

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    敬请期待中文版
    
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    The line up around the "swimming pool" (in fact a tiled turquoise floor designed to look like rippling water), was of power socialites from a different era.
    Think of the famous poolside pictures by Slim Aarons in the 1950's, when glam beach life pushed fashion into the jet set era.
    
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    From their top-knot swim caps and puffy, colourfully flowered duster coats with matching bags, to their mismatched sandals and blue lips, there was a lot to take in. Not to mention the whale-shaped sunglasses and a disco ball hat shaped like a dog.
    
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    Just in case these ladies had forgotten one shoe decorated with a whale or an anchor (since all the pairs were unmatched), there were pool waiters to help them - and to remove the ladies' clothes once they started stripping down.
    These waiters came dressed as parrots in layers of painted feathers, or as furry cats with whiskers.
    
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    Phew! And all that BEFORE the ladies stripped off the beach coats to reveal exemplary tailored outfits - but ones where apparent separates were actually stitched together. Pieces of elegant gingham might give a graphic touch to what looked at first sight like a jacket and dress.
    
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    This really was a fantastic, and almost undefinable way, of putting a collection together - as if the ladies had been digitalised after they had dressed and then their outfits pressed together by a computer to 2D.
    
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    Nothing was fathomable in this Thom Browne collection - except perhaps the swimming costumes as a third act - all in the red, white and blue of the designer's symbolic colouring.
    
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    The show was so dramatic in its presentation that it had to be seen two ways - as a spectacle and as a collection. I longed to see the clothes up close, for they looked not like storage props, but like smart and original clothes that clients like Michelle Obama might willingly wear.
    
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    So was it a mistake to present this summer collection in such an extraordinary way? Not at all! It proved what a brilliant and inventive designer Thom Brown is - a rare American fashion treasure.
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