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敬请期待中文版  Paul Andrew in his New York showroom, with one of his signature wedge sandals for Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue It is such an amazing honour to be the first named shoe designer of the house since Salvatore Ferragamo passed away in the 1960s,” said Paul Andrew of his new appointment at the iconic Italian footwear brand. The designer, British-born but with a long track record in America, was showing his own designs for next season. True to style, he chose a key country as inspiration for his collection; this time it was Scandinavia. That meant chunky wooden heels and shoes in colours from mud-brown leather to russet suede. These references to nature were also reflected in a display of wood mid-century modern furniture.  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue For all the solid success of his American brand, Paul Andrew recognises that the collaboration with Ferragamo is both a challenge and an opportunity.  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue “I feel that they are poised to take their brand to the next level - and of course they also have so many iconic shoes in the line already,” the new designer said. “I am excited to delve into the archive, re-work some of those things and give my modern edge to them.”  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue As we sat on beige sofas in his showroom, with windows overlooking the sun-soaked Hudson River, I thought of the enormous Ferragamo archive in Florence, and asked Paul Andrew how he would find a starting point. “There are so many great shoes to work with in the archive - but I think it’s about taking baby steps and do one or two shoes at a time,” he said.  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue “The Rainbow wedge is such an iconic piece and maybe I will re-work that in some way for the first season,” the new Design Director revealed, referring to the famous Ferragamo shoe in strips of different coloured suede.  "The Rainbow", a gold platform sandal with multicoloured suede stripes, was created by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1938 for Judy Garland. This is the most famous pair of shoes created by Salvatore in his entire career as shoemaker to the stars, and shows his capacity for combining form and colour. The name refers to Judy Garland's signature song from "The Wizard of Oz" - "Somewhere Over The Rainbow", and was the first platform sandal of the 20th century. Salvatore Ferragamo Archive Ferruccio Ferragamo, President of the family brand, says that it has always had “a proud history of nurturing talent”. “We believe that Paul’s credo matches the spirit at the heart of our house,” he said. It was Salvatore’s pioneering spirit that resulted in iconic inventions that were landmarks in women’s fashion - including the cork wedge and the stiletto heel.  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue Paul Andrew’s talent was recognised by the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2014, when he was the first shoe designer to win such a prestigious award. He has also worked behind the scenes for many famous names, from Carolina Herrera to Diane von Furstenberg. But now his creative juices will be used only for Ferragamo and his namesake brand.  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue For Paul Andrew, Salvatore was a genius of invention. “I am a designer that really understands form and function,” he says, “and when I think about when Salvatore Ferragamo began, he studied anatomy and went to Los Angeles to study the human form and how shoes should perform in real life.”  Paul Andrew, Spring/Summer 2017 @SuzyMenkesVogue “I have also done a lot of studies to ensure my shoes are the best-fitting,” he continued. “But there are also aesthetic similarities. I have not solely concentrated on towering high-heels. I have a lot of great flats and mid-heels. I have really built a business on that sort of product.” (责任编辑：admin) |