 Akris Spring/Summer 2017 Akris was inspired by Cuban-American artist Carmen Herrera, 101, who has a retrospective at the Whitney this month @SuzyMenkesVogue Jason Wu: Mixed-media inspiration Natural and artificial,” said Jason Wu of a collection that seemed a fresh departure for the designer. The big catwalk had shrunk to intimate lounge-like rooms, filled with mid-century modern furniture and decorated with tanks of vivid flowers. Their colours blazed out in bright shades that were reflected on whimsical dresses.  Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital When designers turn to inspiration from artists, they often have something new to say. The polite Jason Wu outfits that attracted Michelle Obama, seemed to morph into something less substantial, but more intriguing.  Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital The new Wu was inspired by the artist Ugo Rondinone, the New York-based mixed-media artist, whose use of neon, Perspex and translucent film, blurring the bright colours into rainbow shades, had an electrifying effect on this Spring/Summer 2017 collection.  Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Light, floaty dresses in pastel colours - or even the more tailored pieces - were outlined with fluorescent green. This gave a youthful freshness that intensified when appliquéd flowers gave a third dimension to a simple top or dress.  Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital The show opened with outfits in intense blue. This created a futuristic effect as the skirt of a coat or as lines of ribbons criss-crossing a dress. Vivid pink followed, but was tempered by pale flowers on simple, long gowns. The surprise was in the wispy, seductive, cut-away dresses, some so lacy and transparent that they seemed focused on flesh.  Jason Wu Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Wu is not really an inventive designer. Christopher Kane has used neon plaster strips in a more sinister and sexually suggestive way. But as the time left for America’s current First Lady ticks away, in the light of a newly elected President, Jason has had the intelligence to take a new direction: younger, fresher and drawing a blueprint for his future.  Jason Wu takes a bow after his Spring/Summer 2017 show InDigital Akris: Abstract minimalism The best thing is when the woman appears first - not her clothes,” said Albert Kriemler of Akris to describe his fashion vision.  Akris Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Many of his discreet clients, if not Princess Charlene of Monaco or former Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice, showed up for this exceptional New York show that celebrated the Swiss designer’s 2016 Couture Council Artistry of Fashion Award. Selected by FIT (the Fashion Industry of Technology), backstage the designer said that he was overwhelmed to be chosen, following such an exclusive list of previous winners.  Akris Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital The craftsmanship and exceptional fabrics gleaned from this nearly 95-year-old family brand was only half the story. Kriemler had worked with Carmen Herrera, the 101-year-old Cuban-American abstract painter, who co-incidentally has her first American exhibition opening at New York’s Whitney Museum next week.  Akris Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Kriemler’s impeccable cutting of unadorned clothes was enriched by graphic colour blocks, perhaps a puzzle of squares or simple stripes on a long, sporty dress or similar effects for an evening vision in gauzy fabric. Even lace, such a cliché for evening clothes, was given a crisp and sober cut by Akris.  Akris Spring/Summer 2017 InDigital Although the presentation seemed plain to a fault, I thought about the designer’s insistence that women should come first: a laudable aim in a fashion era where clothes often shout far too loud.  Albert Kriemler of Akris InDigital (责任编辑：admin) |