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敬请期待中文版 Kenzo: Colourful, KineticClothes A Paris theatre was laid out with chairs in twists and turns,its vast walls decorated with digital projections of pianokeys in a rainbow of colours. What was the meaning and themessage at Kenzo, especially as the first sound of the show was theAmerican National Anthem?  Picture credit: Indigital Humberto Leon and his design partner Carol Lim had the modelscriss-crossing the angular pathways. I didn'treally understand the message of the presentation, but Iappreciated the dynamism of the show.  Picture credit: Indigital These American designers of Asian origin instinctively getwhat is trending in fashion now. Maybe because of their OpeningCeremony stores in New York, LA and Tokyo, "cool" is part of theirfashion DNA, and that is how the clothes looked: mini skirts andshort dresses with high-rise waists or exposure around the neck forlong coats that might be patterned with three-dimensionalflowers. The widening of the neckline to a flat, or converselya high, frill were perhaps the loudest fashion messages.  Picture credit: Indigital But Leon and Lim do not work like typical designers with atheme. They just know how to use digital skills toupgrade traditional animal prints. And they cantransform "old lady" lavender into a coolshade as a full-sleeve satin blouse shimmering abovetight velvet trousers.  Picture credit: Indigital So what WAS the story behind the piano keyboard images? Leonexplained that they were "designed by these three fifteen-year-oldkids we found on the Internet". And why the complex catwalk route the modelstook? "It was about this group of people gathering, formingideas and thoughts," Leon said. "It was exciting to see all thecollision of patterns in the outfits and on the runway - it wasnice to see that energy."  Picture credit: Indigital Sonia Rykiel: Stepping Into the Future Moving the Sonia Rykiel show to under the soaring roof of theParis Beaux Arts building was a big step in a freshdirection. Artistic Director Julie de Libran hadpreviously staged her shows in Sonia Rykiel's landmark Paris store,the shelves filled with books, which have become the house's quirkynew symbol. Books? Don't you mean screens?  Picture credit: Indigital But the new designer understands the digital age: she is takingelements of the Rykiel heritage and making them modern yetcomprehensible to members of the Rykiel family, who were sitting inone of the square pens that the models walked through. Wine-red tailoring illuminated with a fur collar led intowell-cut but relaxed cropped jackets and baggy trousers. The mix ofmannish fabric and a striding attitude seemed just right, as didfurry cardigans with a leather skirt.  Picture credit: Indigital The idea of tailored knitwear is so forgotten by modern fashionthat de Libran could have a real success with a double-breasted,ribbed jersey coat or any of the striped knitwear that followed. Itall seemed like a stride forward for the designer who took thehelm of the typically 1970s brand just two years ago.  Picture credit: Indigital And to prove that she really is digitally savvy, she handedout envelopes announcing those familiar smartphone words: "Youhave a new message." The Sonia Rykiel press packcontinued, "SR stands for 'Seriously Ravishing'."  Picture credit: Indigital Nina Ricci: Stealthy Sensuality Coats, solid winter coats - although maybe worn sensually overchiffon tops revealing white brassieres - showed the moment whenthe Nina Ricci look got back on track. Designer Guillaume Henryshowed the collection with models walking on a silver-carpeted,X-shaped runway, which added a sense of intimacy important to thestoryline.  Picture credit: Indigital The heroine, as ever, was the Sixties moviestar Romy Schneider, and although this very grown-up lookof slow-burn glamour was at first a shock after the nice-girlteen looks Guillaume showed previously at Carven, this season hiswoman got into her stride.  Picture credit: Indigital The runway angling through the large space gave an intimacyto clothes that were sporty but also sensual. Using slightly"off" colours like moss green, sage, pewter, and eggplantpurple, and, above all, by adding the glimmer of satin and discreetsparkles, Henry created an image that was very French. Readsubtle sexualisation and sophisticated cut.  Picture credit: Indigital This is a different look for Nina Ricci from thepretty-in-pink-and-roses style of previous designer Peter Copping.But Henry has his own vision and the look is beginning to meldbeautifully with Ricci.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |