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敬请期待中文版 Vivienne Westwood: (Partly)Passing The Torch Andreas Kronthaler, the long-term husband of Vivienne Westwood,stood backstage working on the models' outfits. Nothing novelabout that. Except for the first time, Vivienne, forever famous forher "Punk goes Pop" creations, is passing the torch toAndreas. Well, part of it.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Although Vivienne, 75 this year, was at theshow, she said that it was all a formality to regularisethe many Westwood collections and that Andreas was "more in tunewith cosmic sources". This admission marks thebeginning of the end of the era.  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Andreas fitted the show to the millennial trend of "genderneutral", although that does not really describe the colourfulclothes, wrapped round the body and worn by both sexes with thesignature Westwood platform boots. (Naomi Campbell famously felldown in them on the catwalk.)  Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue Strong pieces included "scarlet woman" outfits (for bothgenders), a man's coat shimmering with digital printing, and acharming checked dress, rich with embroidered roses. Thisseason's title was "Sexercise", which sounded much like goodol' Viv. Emanuel Ungaro: Sharp, But Needing ASpecific Identity The essence of the original Emanuel Ungaro shows was exuberance,just as it is for Fausto Puglisi and his own brief-skirted RomanLegion look that he presents in Italy. But for his latest showfor Ungaro, the designer zoned out of mini and into maxi, showingmid-calf skirts that were somewhere between the languid 1970s andthe edgy 1980s.  Picture credit: Indigital Add a single leg covered in mesh hose, emerging from theside-slit dresses, and you had an uncertain mix of sober andsexy. With so many shows using inter-twining runways, which often givethe audience a second view, the Ungaro presentation was just toobriefly in the light, though there were some fine, flat,flower prints that might have been a digital interpretation ofKlimt.  Picture credit: Indigital I am all in favour of showing a range of grown-up clothes,with Fausto's swooping long coats and forward-stride culotteslooking like strong power-women creations. But their connection toEmanuel Ungaro's legacy? Hard to know.  Picture credit: Indigital I remember how proud Emanuel Ungaro was, and no doubt still is,of his three-year period working with Balenciaga. With that namenow in the forefront of fashion, Puglisi might have dug more deeplyinto the heritage of the brand he is charged withreviving.  Picture credit: Indigital John Galliano: Waving The Flag Cut, shape and drape is key to the work of BillGaytten - and has been since his earliest days working with JohnGalliano.  Picture credit: Indigital Now that he has taken over the name of the house, Bill keeps onwaving the flag, and does so with ease.  Picture credit: Indigital With a touch of irony about Dickensian England and a stirringsexuality when a military top had a semi-transparent lacebottom-half, the designer introduced effortless keynotesto the Autumn/Winter 2016-17 season.  Picture credit: Indigital To be a pro in fashion is no bad thing, and Bill's ability tohandle both hard and soft, tailoring and fluidity, is a masterclass. Stand-out pieces - and there were many - includeda military coat, its cut softened with silk lapels; a Victorianlacy, white shirt with a pair of mannish pants; the same innocentwhite lacing for a dress; and a not-so-innocent black laceskirt.  Picture credit: Indigital Add skills honed with Galliano and perfected at Dior, like abias-cut dress, and you realise that the show's "watches on achain" might look Victorian, but Bill Gaytten's time at Galliano isnow.  Picture credit: Indigital Mugler: Finding His Second Skin David Koma took over at Mugler little more thantwo years ago and has succeeded in keeping it rollingalong, fuelled on sex, metallic, and blackleather.  Picture credit: Indigital Koma has a clear vision of Mugler the brand, which is built onthe continuing success of the fragrances inspired by ThierryMugler, the founder who was known for his edgy,forward-looking design.  Picture credit: Indigital To the current designer, cold, sharp, and hard is the message,and with that he creates a clear fashion look, built on blackleather. With a space-age moon as the backdrop, the models walkedout, trussed into their second skin, but finding movement whenticker tape-style strips opened up the body.  Picture credit: Indigital The story continued with silvered strings forming shapes on thesurface of a black dress. There were plenty of sharp and sleekclothes, with splashes of yellow and orange. But it is difficultnot to see the fashion enterprise as an adjunct to the hugelysuccessful Mugler fragrance business owned by the Clarins skincaregroup.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |