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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital Conceptualists are not necessarily those who push fashionforward - rather they are the designers who extend the boundaries,allowing clothing to enter the realm of art. I looked at threedesigners at the Paris collections - Jonathan Anderson forLoewe, Hussein Chalayan and Rick Owens - to see how far theycan stretch their imaginations to create original, yet wearable,clothes. Jonathan Anderson for Loewe: Wit and Wisdom - ata Fashion Show? Perhaps only Jonathan could have pulled off such an ironicapproach to a fashion show, as the hypnotic voice of a meditationtherapist worked very slowly towards the fact that he was trying tocure a smoker (cue wry laughs from the cigarette-addicted fashionfolk). Then there were the clothes to fit nicely with theseaccessories. They included not only the Loewe bags that are at thesoul of the Spanish company, but also all sorts of bits and pieces,from leather bra cups to a necklace with a primitive face.  Picture credit: Indigital "Articulate the woman around the bag - a curated space,creating the physical look," said the designer, describing aprocess that I have never before heard from a creative mind aimingto give an accessories company viable clothes. But the effect was powerful, helping to create the bestshow the Irish designer has yet achieved for the Spanishbrand. Let's start with the bags. They were strong, and sometimesgrand, as in a gilded version bold enough to face-off a print of agrand mansion on the bodice of a dress and a golden bracelet at thewrist.  Picture credit: Indigital The skirt - one of many that were bias-cut with a pointededge - did not seem so compelling. But the designer also offered asimpler dress with leather strips, which competed for attentionwith a plain bag and a cat image on a necklace.  Picture credit: Indigital Anderson's strength lies in his geometric approach toclothes and accessories. Everything seems sharp and well plannedand even if some of the dipping hemlines and a hessian weave skirtseemed too much, at least they made themselves known.  Picture credit: Indigital I discussed the accessories-into-clothes fashion situationwhen I was in Milan. But unlike so many houses, Loewe does notlook like a shadow of a heritage house. Andersen sent out plenty ofbold coats appropriate to the brand in woven textiles, leather andfur. Accessories probably outsell clothes by ten to one. But that'snot the point. He set out to create a vision of the woman around,or dare I say "behind", the bag. And he did it boldly and withpanache.  Picture credit: Indigital Chalayan: A German Inspiration The Chalayan spirit always leans towards the technical, evenwhen it's low-tech, such as the pastel lights that shone fromclunky floor lamps to cast colourful shadows on the wall.  Picture credit: Indigital But as the clothes became less evocative of car mechanics andmore fanciful, with a spidery theme, it was clear that the singleword 'Teutonic' printed on the programme was a message from thedesigner.  Picture credit: Indigital "The whole thing was supposed to be about Germans - the entireregion," Said Chalayan, who defined the drawings as taken from aspace-ship dashboard, embroidered "to give them charm".  Picture credit: Indigital Following the magpie mind of the designer is a challenge, butthe complexity of his backstage statements do not apply to hisclothes. The designer's workwear - simple, sporty clothes -occasionally moved towards workman's dungarees.  Picture credit: Indigital Chalayan pointed out that the entire Germanic area included notonly mechanics but also the origin of fairy tales - hence his takeon the winking lights of the Autobahn as a fairytale setting andthe use red Swarowski crystals to glitter like road lights.  Picture credit: Indigital I welcome Chalayan's opening up of his thoughts andinspirations. Especially when he can turn his mind's eye into suchappealing clothes. Rick Owens: Full-On Conceptual Women with their heads cocooned in a fuzz of filaments andbodies wrapped in puffer coats represented a new stage in RickOwens' relationship with man (or woman) and nature. The models walked down the iron stairway to the depths ofthe Palais de Tokyo, which Owens has been using to give adungeon-like effect in his recent collections.  Picture credit: Indigital In this particular primeval area, Owens' drapes, which dominatedthe show, seemed gentler and sweeter, particularly with his use ofcolours, where soft green or warm orange as well as muddy brownfaced-off the more familiar black and white.  Picture credit: Indigital I saw this collection as an ode to nature. But in the shownotes, his vision seemed darker and even apocalyptic.  Picture credit: Indigital The designer quoted Salvador Dali's Swans ReflectingElephants as part of his complex inspiration. Followingthrough from his men's collection, Rick had softened his approach,using abstract shapes folding around the body. Other complexthoughts described "floating flannels and mohair clouds".  Picture credit: Indigital The concepts seemed to get the better of the show - but therewere some graceful drapes, gently cut coats and an overallelegance, give or take the odd fuzz ofhead-coverings. (责任编辑：admin) |