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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital It started with a sleeveless T-shirt, withladders like torn hose, worn above black trousers. But that wasjust the beginning of Paco Rabanne - "Wacko Paco" as the designerwas called back in the Sixties - where Creative Director JulienDossena has taken over. This was an exceptional treatment of a fashion heritage, where,since 2013, the designer has been mashing up the futuristicqualities of then and now. The 21st-century vision of modernism is not about rattlingmetallic chains, but about playing with different stretch fabrics,so that a soft cream hoodie with metallic clips moved into thelower half of a dress in bright white.  Picture credit: Indigital It seemed like material that moved with the body was factoredinto every piece: in tops worn over thin, black bras; or a collar'sedge that was smothered in roughly cut fur. Prints and patterns,sparking ear pieces and a fringed loafer boot finished off theapparently basic clothes. Not to mention "journey into space"silver boots, ready for lift off. Each outfit sounds complex, yet the effect was the opposite. Then there was 21st-century decoration, like a shiny,black top embroidered with licking scarlet flames. For his sixthshow with the house, the designer introduced fresh elements, likepatterns of tigers that leaped across a bare midriff top mirroringa 3D movie.  Picture credit: Indigital I wanted to know where all the references came from: the metalmesh used for a slithering scarlet dress was surely a look back toGianniVersace in the 1990s - a fact that Julien confirmedbackstage. The reason why Paco Rabanne has found a successful designerafter many failed attempts is as mysterious as the enormous pictureof wild rushes and concrete pods that artist David De Beyterpresented with his invitations at "Paco Rabanne".  Picture credit: Indigital Since this new Creative Director has got under the skin of thefounder and made the brand coherent, I asked Julien to explain histechnique in his own words. "I try to find a good material that's really neutral and thatallows me that sharpness and cleanness to work and play with moredecoration and more prints," the designer said. "You can still besharp and add some decoration."  Picture credit: Indigital "For tailoring, I wanted this attitude of super confident andsuper strong," he continued. "It's really how to play and also finda new identity for that girl that we've been working on for twoyears now." It seems like time well spent and that 21st-century identity isjust what Paco Rabanne - and other space-age heritage houses - needto survive 50 years on. (责任编辑：admin) |