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敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital THESE BLACK, high boots were meant for walking - yet the whitefrills cascading over the thighs told a story of frothyfemininity. Philosophy di LorenzoSerafini took an old story - the man/woman thing - andpressed the reset button. On the male side were snug jackets withvelvet collars, black leather trousers and flat ankle boots, butalmost everything else was whipped into an exaggeratedfemininity.  Picture credit: Indigital Frills escaped from the hem of a tweed coat. They poured in -one, two, three, four - snow white flounces over a black chiffonunderlay. Black lace delicately decorated with flowers was madeinto a pair of shorts. Conversely, the high leather boots belowthose shorts had a velvet bow tied around the knee.  Picture credit: Indigital In last season's Philosophy show, the designer had focused onprairie prettiness for sweet summer nights and days. This winter collection was more urban, masculine - and more rock'n roll. Do bad girls wear frills? Almost every outfit, from shinyscarlet trousers with a frilly white shirt to a dark shade ofunderwear revealed through a prissy, frilly dress, posed thatquestion. And nothing said it with more wit and dash than thethigh-high be-ribboned boots.  Picture credit: Indigital It is good to find a designer with a sense of humour and style.Philosophy is part of the Alberta Ferretti empire and LorenzoSerafini's forceful feminism makes him one to watch. Gabriele Colangelo: Scent of History Ah! The sweet, musty scent of ancient books - their russet andgold leather covers filling the shelves of the library in Milan'sBrera Academy.  Picture credit: Indigital The backdrop that GabrieleColangelo used for his show brought back his own memories ofstudying there as a classics student. The artist in him has meldedwith his family tradition of fur-making to create beautifulresults. Colangelo's method is to keep the fur at the heart of what hedoes - but not necessarily as its all-over surface. So mink mightbe used half fur/half leather. Or fur would be given a metallic,silver treatment, wrapped around a white cotton dress like anapron.  Picture credit: Indigital Silver fox, in different shades and cut into small squares,created a mosaic of fur, showing both the deep knowledge thedesigner has inherited from his furrier father and his own artisticskills.  Picture credit: Indigital I was reminded of Fendi in the period when fur was out of styleand the fashion was to use the skins sparingly. But Colangelo has a21st-century eye and an intriguing modern take. Aquilano.Rimondi: Femininity and Sensuality The proliferation of shows and fashion, low to high, from storesto online, puts a demand on designers. What different, individual,exceptional clothes do they have to offer?  Picture credit: Indigital As they stood backstage by the mood board, with their fluffywhite dog, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi explained theirattitude to a dynamic woman's everyday wardrobe. I could see the story on the models lined up for the show:impeccable Italian tailoring on soft lines, at their most glamorousin shades of cream and when the upper body was draped in a soft,sashed blouse.  Picture credit: Indigital But by the time this "tailoring light" hit the runway - andespecially when the colours were a sophisticated mix of ink bluewith black - the fashion statement was neutral. It was not "gender neutral" as I had expected, meaning aforceful blend of male/female, but rather well-designed modernclothes. They hit all the right notes - silvered dress, off-kiltershimmering top and a sporty dash of red piping.  Picture credit: Indigital Nothing was wrong. In fact the integration of sheer and shine,right down to the silver-heeled bootees, looked good. But to standout, this design duo need to be more dynamic. (责任编辑：admin) |