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敬请期待中文版  Emporio Armani's A/W 2016-17 collection embraced a digital vocabulary of signs and symbols Picture credit: Indigital THE DIGITAL AGE, and especially the Instagram generation, has transformed fashion shows in what were once unimaginable ways. The first exit on the catwalk must grab smartphone attention. The models must be young enough to attract a worldwide digital following. And, above all, from every angle the show must look on-message. Here is my verdict of the shows as I saw them - sometimes, but not entirely, through my smartphone. GIAMBA: GIAMBATTISTA VALLI As the Giamba girls strode out belligerently, young things with hair twisted and head held high, it struck me that only a decade ago - even five years ago - parents would have had much more control over what their kids were wearing.  Picture credit: Indigital Now it is the opinion of friends, via Snapchat, WhatsApp and Instagram, who will make the final decision about the raised waist of a lacy dress and decide to "like" the wavy patterned sweater worn above a tiny mini skirt covered in graffiti. (Mummy wouldn't like it.)  Picture credit: Indigital These are rich girl's clothes: a white silk organza dress worn under a padded bomber jacket. Even the shoes are tough and clunky, while the evening dresses, made pretty with pink flowers, were presented by young women with a tough attitude.  Picture credit: Indigital Valli is surely finding his millennials in the daughters of his clients. Full marks to him for realising that mothers and daughters of today are worlds apart.  Picture credit: Indigital DIESEL BLACK GOLD: MOOD INDIGO You might expect Diesel Black Gold to be immersed in black. But the indigo denim pieces that opened the show were a sign that Diesel is spreading its style from the late teens to to the generation in their 20s and 30s.  Picture credit: Indigital The brand was once hooked on streetwear and denim. But there were more sophisticated pieces this season.  Picture credit: Indigital For example, quilting worn under a shorter jacket. Maybe the designer believes that you can capture fashion lovers very young before they find their own way of dressing?  Picture credit: Indigital HOGAN: FANCY FOOTWORK Of course, millennials are Generation Sneaker, the first to believe that sporty footwear is for all times and seasons.  Hogan did show some sporty clothes, such as duffle coats and simple shirts, but the story was all at the ankles, where the choices were enormous - from glitter-gold to platform.  Generation Sneaker would have a field day here with only one problem: which of the splendid choices to go for? FAY: TEXAS ON THE TIBER Take the West with the Wild and you had the theme for Fay, where elements from Cowboy and Western movies were combined with sharp tailoring.  Picture credit: Indigital I am never sure whether a mixture of naval tailoring, with navy coats piped in red, and the ironic look from Spaghetti Westerns appeals to the digital generation. But, who knows?  Picture credit: Indigital Design duo Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi made a fine job of making suede fringing and cowboy boots. If it is not for millennials, the look could be good for those who want to dress without fuss.  Picture credit: Indigital EMPORIO ARMANI: PIXEL PERFECT Daddy might approve of the clothes at Emporio Armani, where everything is on the side of decency and tailoring is still part of the Armani aesthetic.  Picture credit: Indigital But this line seems to get younger with time, its patterns of triangles and squares straight out of a geometry class.  Picture credit: Indigital Pink knits with black stripes, dots and other digital glyphs were an example of how this line has been refurbished with computer-generated patterns for 21st-century cool.  Picture credit: Indigital ICEBERG: DOT MATRIX Take an Italian fashion house founded on knitwear, offer a smart young designer the chance to play with it - and the result can be very effective.  Picture credit: Indigital Arthur Arbesser, a finalist in last season's LVMH prize, understands the power of modernity in design - and he accepts that Italian brand Iceberg is famous for its knitwear.  Picture credit: Indigital Taking as inspiration Superstudio, the avant-garde 1960s Italian architecture firm; Japanese street style; and the Italian rave scene from the 1990s, and you had the designer's vibrant mash-up.  Picture credit: Indigital The vivid colours included a baby blue furry coat; a papal purple lacy knit top and skirt; and oversize coats with bold digital patterns.  Picture credit: Indigital These are bright looks for millennials who can handle clothes that speak loudly - to themselves.  Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |