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敬请期待中文版  Oscar de laRenta Picture credit: Indigital Oscar de la Renta: Stretching the Ball Gown IT WAS THE word "techno" that stopped me in my tracks at Oscar de laRenta'a show. Techno? Techno! From a house that was built on uptown glamourwith its late founder always partial to a ball gown? But current designer PeterCopping made a smart move. He kept the silhouettes and overallimages from the Oscar years - especially the taut sweater with agirlish full skirt. That ultimately led to floral patterned, full-skirted gowns. The contents of the show might have stayed traditional, as amink collar or a lace skirt, but Copping introduced stretch andmodernist fabrics, such as the "techno" effects used both forcanvas and cotton cocktail dresses. Even corsets seemed to have asoft touch and there had clearly been internal work to get rid oftraditional boning. "Versatility," said Copping backstage, where clients traditionaland younger gathered to congratulate him. The designer explained tome that apparently gowns were, in fact, made in two separatepieces: swimsuit-style top and skirt slim or wide below.  Oscar de laRenta Picture credit: Indigital Itis smart to adapt the tenets of haute couture and bring them into the 21stcentury. The show itself could have used some more casual way of presenting theoutfits. But I hope that this idea of fusing reality and dream will findenthusiasts among red carpet stars who deserve modern comfort along with thesilver-screen glamour. Narciso Rodriguez: Loosening Up Itis a long stretch from taut, body-conscious dresses tottering down the runwayto the soft clothes on a mustard palette from Narciso Rodriguez, who hadswapped body con for just a discreet cut-away slit to show a little leg.  NarcisoRodriguez "Fluidity" is a fashionable word of the moment, whether peopleare talking about gender or other once rigid boundaries. It was asif Narciso had sensed this change in society and transferred it tohis fashion. I liked this switch from sexy to sensual, because showinglittle is so often more suggestive than full disclosure. The cut ofa loose-fitting plissé wool wrap coat that opened the collectionwas graceful and the same effect continued to jackets and softsuede dresses.  NarcisoRodriguez The flip of one leg from a triangular cut in the hemline was aconsistent element - although it is always difficult to decide whenrepetition moves from being a signature to a bore. I admire Narciso for the journey his has taken from thesensuality of his Cuban origins to New York sleek and chic. Withjust one caveat: On the very night of his show, Selma Blairappeared on television in one of his fitted, curvy, short dresses.The designer needs to find a thread that links his separatevisions. (责任编辑：admin) |