|
敬请期待中文版  Picture credit: Indigital FRESH BLOOD RED - but of course! - with nude pink, virgin whiteor black lace against bared skin… What other palette of colourscould there be from Rodarte, the design duo addicted to stealingbeauty from horror movies and Gothic gore?  Picture credit: Indigital But this was a gentle and graceful version of Laura and KateMulleavy's style, even if the inspiration for the show came fromfinding the Italian café in North Beach, San Francisco, whereFrancis Ford Coppola wrote The Godfather.  Theatmospheric Rodarte stage set was filled with flowers, redfluorescent lights and a rubbleeffect Picture credit: @SuzyMenkesVogue The Mulleavy sisters are making a movie of their own, followingtheir costume designs for Darren Aranofosky's Black Swanin 2010. Woodshock has Kirsten Dunst as its star, and shewas sitting front and central to watch red fluorescent tubes on therunway light up like fires among the Proustian display of callalilies, anemones and ranunculus. Those compelling flowers were alsowoven in the models' hair, while oncidium and phalaenopsis orchidswere turned into jewellery.  Picture credit: Indigital Strains of The Last Waltz Suite by The Band filled theroom to accompany the rough-and-sweet clothes that included heftyleather and shearling jackets, but only as an accompaniment tofragile lace. Shades of lavender beading and creamy silken knitwearcreated an eerie femininity to complement the look. Laura talked about a trilogy of colours - black, white and red -as being symbolic, while Kate focused on the floral hair effects,especially orchids, that she said had mesmerised her vision.  Picture credit: Indigital I cannot decide whether the Rodarte shows are more or lessdisturbing now that the design duo has delicately sewn togetherwhat used to be left in raw strands. I still felt a sense of menacefrom furry coats with fiery coloured fringes eating into mud brownand dusky pink with the look of angry birds, while tulle ruffledetails looked like shreds from Miss Havisham's dusty abandonedwedding gown from Dickens' Great Expectations.  Picture credit: Indigital With Rodarte, there is always a sense of a backstory, as thoughthese pretty dresses were the beginning or the end of something -probably bad - that was buried under foot where ruffled lizard skinrose from shoes to entwine the legs.  Picture credit: Indigital These dresses will look as good on the red carpet as they did inthe glow of red fluorescents, but I hope they won't lose the quirkyRodarte spirit.  KirstenDunst features in "Woodshock", a new film by the Mulleavy sisters,pictured after the Rodarte show Picture credit: Indigital (责任编辑：admin) |