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敬请期待中文版  Altuzarra Picture credit: Indigital IN THE BATTLE between bad girls and good girls, the latter haveseldom won - at least in the fashion world. Sex, rock and rebellionhave been staples for half a century. Smart young women with floatydresses and strict but sensual jackets don't usually cut it. But, in an exceptional collection Joseph Altuzarra playedsophisticate to Alexander Wang's wild child - and won. His intensedecoration that included tiny florals patterning jackets or boots,was rich in references, yet came over as an elegantexuberance. Backstage, receiving tributes from front-row guest KateBosworth, Altuzarra had an explanation for the white-paintedtrellis as a single statement on his runway. "It was about being very curious and open to differentinspirations," the designer said. "The winter garden was so poetic,but it was also so structural."  Altuzarra Picture credit: Indigital And those words were the essence of a fine Altuzarra collection,where flower-patterned parkas matched the boots and paisley printson flowing dresses suggested the India of the Raj. The differentinspirations were, like the shapely clothes, brought tidilytogether. The show notes referred to Jim Jarmusch's film Only LoversLeft Alive and the designer said that he "wanted to be free tofollow my curiosity about the world we live in, and weave atapestry of references and stories into this collection". Then headded a crucial sentence: "I also wanted to speak to the women Iknow and the reality of their lives". That final line incorporated the strength of the collection andits exceptional grace. I have seen so many inspirations of theIndia of the Raj in my long fashion career, but this was not somuch a cultural screengrab as an interpretation.  Altuzarra Picture credit: Indigital That hot pink that DianaVreeland famously described as "the navy blue of India",appeared as a slim skirt worn with a jacket dense in floraldecoration, but neatly fitted. Another jacket might be worn overslim trousers with a faint shadow of the cut of jodhpurs. Fringeframed a top, which was opened up with lattice sleeves. Dresseswere fitted, but long and soft below the waist. The folkloric aspects went beyond India, stretching along a silkroute from Venice, through Morocco to Turkey. In producing such sumptuous richness so perfectly under control,this Altuzarra show created a FINE fashion moment. Alexander Wang "Pop culture - it's what I feel, it's what I do - it's theWang counties!" said Alexander Wang, who held his show under thesoaring dome of a regular New York place of worship: StBartholomew's Episcopal Church on Park Avenue.  Picture credit: Indigital The designer's naughty-boy attitude consistedof printing words like "STRICT" or "TENDER" on to the thighs ofsheer, sticking tops and sending out leaf patterns that some of thesniggering audience claimed as weed. A his-and-hers oversized sweater with a pattern of a pole dancerwas not so much daring as cheery. It was easy to get the message:Wang was determined to put his Balenciaga couture days behind him -and perhaps find another inspiration. I wondered if there was alittle nod in the raw-edged clothes to Vetements, the label whoseanti-fashion stance is sweeping European style and whose leader -Demna Gvasalia - has taken over Wang's Creative Director role atBalenciaga.  AlexanderWang Picture credit: Indigital Whatever the complexity or otherwise behind Wang's show, itsdefiant adolescent attitude did not seem to take fashion forward.There were some strong riffs: tweed jackets, geometricallypatterned ankle-length dresses, sharp 1960s-style mini-skirt looksand powerful accessories, and especially leather boots with heavymetal. Wang also incorporated men's clothes that worked well and wereon message as a reflection - not a rejection - of current society.Not entirely rebellious then. (责任编辑：admin) |