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孔雀鞋从手袋中汲取设计灵感(7)

http://www.newdu.com 2017-11-26 VOGUE时尚网 Suzy Menkes 翻译:徐 参加讨论

    ROGER VIVIER
    “I am making masculine shoes,’’ said Bruno Frisoni, as he showed me flat shoes and a mannish approach in the low boots in graphic black-and-white checks – large or small.
    
    Looking up at a crystal chandelier with a pair of thigh-high boots swinging, disembodied, like a photograph by Guy Bourdin, I was not totally convinced by this idea of masculine defeating feminine at Vivier. The compromise: feminine flats with graphic star patterns or colour blocks.
    
    The skill was to find not just a decorative approach, but also to invent a new signature for Vivier and Frisoni’s three-dimensional “Prismick” cutting. The answer was not the established “virgule” or comma, shape, but the new trumpet heel – high but curved, and inspired by the cut of 1970s trousers.
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